Zombies Party! New post on the blog to show you some of the most interesting conversions I've done lately. A good friend has sent me an old box of Citadel zombies in plastic which I wanto to assemble time ago. The box is quite complete and it was very fun to make these conversions. or me, Citadel miniatures have disproportionate hands and feet, not an issue when mounting zombies, where anything goes. I have used entirely parts of the box. I have tried to get different expression to each zombie. To do this I had to cut and reposition hands and legs. And with putty I retouched some amputees limbs, chunks of hair and scalp, and filled all joints assembled parts. This will be the first part of this work. There will be a second with the decoration of the bases and a third showing you the finished work of the zombies in the portfolio. Hope you like it, see you !
This tutorial illustrates how to paint a miniature of British Infantry Centre Company,28mm scale, hard plastic, of Victrix Limited (http://www.victrixlimited.com/) forming part of a battalion of 26 miniatures that you can see in the 28mm section of this page. Step 1: Skin *For this tutorial we will use reference range of Model Color acrylics Vallejo. We paint the entire surface with Orange Brown (70981). Mix Orange Brown (70981) and Flat Flesh (70955) 1:1 and applied in most of the outstanding areas leaving the base color in deeper grooves. Mix Flat Flesh (70955) and Pale Sand (70837) 1:1 and apply it to the outstanding areas letting see some of the color from the previous step. We give a final touch with the brush tip with Pale Sand (70837) in the most prominent parts (nose, cheeks, chin, and knuckles). For the eyes we paint in black across the surface of the eye, then paint with Ivory (70918) inside the eyes letting see black color of the previous step on the top of the eye. Finally paint a thin black stripe inside the eye. Step 2: Jacket Paint the Jacket and the shako feather with Flat Red (70957) and Black (73602) 1:1. We add a first light with Flat Red (70957). Last light with Vermillion (70909). Step 3: Coat and Harnesses Paint coat and straps with Neutral Grey (70992). We add a first light with Sky Grey (70989) adding White (70951) to the mixture until the pure white. This step will be worth for the shako feather. For the Coat we aplly two shades mixing Neutral Grey (70992) and White (70951) adding more white to the second light. Step 4: Haversack and canteen We'll paint the bag with GlodBrown (70877). Mix GoldBrown (70877) with Ivory (70918) and aplly several times adding more Ivory to the mix. And in the end we will highlight the Haversack directly with Pale Sand(70837). Paint the canteen with Prussian Blue (70965) and give a couple of shades mixing this color with Ivory (70918). Step 5: Musket , leather and metallic Paint the wood of the Musket with a mixture of Flat Brown (70984) and Black (73602) 1:1 and the metal part with a mixture of Gunmetal Grey (70863) and Black (73602) in the same proportion. For the first add Flat Brown (70984) for wood and Gunmetal Grey (70863) for the metal. We will be adding up Orange Brown (70981) and Silver (70997) respectively atthe end. For the black leather of the backpack and shako apply one coat of Neutral Grey (70992) mixed with German Grey (70995) 1:2. For the shako plate mix Bronze (70988) and Black (73602) 1:1, first light with Bronze (70988) and second light Gold (70996). Step 6: Pants Paint the pants with a mixture of Neutral Grey (70992) and German Grey (70995) 1:1. Add more Neutral Grey (70992) to the mixture to start blending Neutral Grey (70992) with Ivory (70918) 1:1. We will apply the last light in fine lines with Sky Grey (70989). Step 7: Collar and sleeves Finally paint the collar and sleeves with the regimental color chosen, in this case a pale yellow. First apply Flat Brown (70984). First light with a mixture of Flat Brown (70984) and Deep Yellow (70915). Second light with Deep Yellow (70915); and finally Light Yellow (70949) directly. That's all, See you!
1.Painting slate wall. After painting the miniatures we still pending painted scenery. We begin with the slate wall we created in a previous post (Preparing the base). First paint the entire wall slate in black to apply the basic colors and then rise as we see necessary. After apply German Grey (70.995) to the wall and Flat Brown (70.984) to the rest of stones. The next step is apply a dry brush of Neutral Grey (70.992) to the wall and Flat Earth (70.983) to the rest of the stones. Finally apply a dry brush of Neutral Grey (70.992) and White in 1:2 ratio, and Iraqui Sand (70.819) to the rest of the stones as long as we get the final result. 2.Painting base and placement miniatures. It's time for the preparation of the ground texture and the placement of miniatures on it. We encountered a first problem, the placement of all models prevents a comfortable placement of texture and decoration. So we have to place the figures slowly and one by one decorating and painting the base around them. Leaving some areas dry until we can continue this process. It may seem tedious, but as we make and paint the ground on one area, another opposite area can dry. The first is to apply a layer of texture Vandal and adding stones of different sizes. We will mold some of them with putty to suit pose of some miniatures. Then aplly black paint across the surface. We apply the basic colors: Citadel Brown Mournfang mixed with black 1:1 to the groung, German Grey (70.995) for the larger rocks, and Flat Brown (70.984) for smaller stones. Then the first lights. Drybrush of Beige Brown (70.875) to the groung and then another very slight of Pale Sand (70.837). Neutral Grey (70.992) for large rocks and Flat Earth (70.983) for smaller stones. And the final climb, Neutral Grey (70.992) with a 1:1 ratio mixed white for rocks and Iraqui Sand (70.819) for small stones. It doesn´t matter the final result as the ground will be covered with most varied vegetation. That's it, the next step you will see published in Diorama section of the website where you can view a complete gallery of the final result and the latest explanation of the final details, all in this link. See you!
French Indian War 1754-1763 Warlord Games - Conquest Miniatures I 've got some interesting news presented by Conquest Miniatures for wargame Warlord Games Black Powder on a wartime no less interesting. This is the French and Indian War that took place between 1754 and 1763. This conflict refers to the two main enemies of the British in North America within the framework of the Seven Years' War: France and the various Native American tribes. Also known as the War of the Conquest of Canada. Due to tensions between the two empires (French and British) and their expansionist aims in the territories of the new world, this war breaks out. Both sides took advantage of the differences between Native American tribes, which took part on one side or another depending on the protection or benefits they could get over their rival tribes. It is a very interesting period which mix war tactics of old Europe in hostile terrain, very different from what were used by French and English troops, with guerrilla tactics and fighting used by Native Americans, adapted to the forest and night raids. This is the exciting time of the adventurers, creating elite units scouts and snipers, militias of the colonies, indian scouts, the danger of the savage natives, the promise of large areas of virgin and rich land and as a backdrop, the interests of the two great powers of the time. Warlord Miniatures & Conquest Games have this wide range of boxes in 28mm scale metal miniatures very interesting to represent this conflict. Whether for collectors or wargamers. In this link you can take a look at the news. Compagnie franches de la marine, British Regular and French Regular. They also have a box that contains a group of Native Americans that are awesone. Highlight the box of Compagnie franches de la marine. This troop was created during the reign of Louis XIII, by his Minister of Marine, Cardinal Richelieu. It was created specifically to protect French interests both at sea and outside European borders. They protected French ports, served on warships, and then were sent as garrison troops to North America and the Caribbean. During the French and Indian War combat these companies noted for Indian style, influenced by the growing number of Canadian officers and the years of conflict with the Indians. Learned guerrilla tactics by skirmishes and tear, unknown methods in Europe, but essential for survival in the new territories. They became formidable opponents respected by both Native Americans and British troops. Not rule out getting a set of the above to represent a scene in the woods of New France, like "The Last of the Mohicans" where Europeans soldiers fight with Native Americans, with the skin painted and the fearsome weapons that terrorized the disciplined troops from Europe. Finally I highly recommend the new plastic miniatures box of Perry Miniatures 28mm scale: American War of Independence British Infantry 1775-1783. Although not framed within the same period, but if it can be interesting to perform some conversion or complete with accessories the metal miniatures from above. That's all ... see you !
1-Painting. After painting dead and wounded models, let´s continue with the rest of the unit. We apply a black primer and then Vallejo acrylic colors. Below I detail the main techniques and colors I used. 1.1-Uniforms. The predominant color is Purple (70.959) as it was the color of the uniform of our regiment. However we don´t apply this color to the entirety of the uniforms. Some jackets and pants are painted in green or brown. With this we get the feeling of the difficulties in the regiment to get new uniforms in campaign. If we add the rips in clothing that we create with putty and the patches on knees and elbows painted in a different color, we leverage these feeling. 1.2-Metal. In the metal parts of the helmets and breastplates we apply Gunmetal Grey (70.863) black lowered to 1:1. We then apply two to three washes Wash for NATO camo vehicles (AK075) intercative AK, leaving enough time to dry between washes. This effect obscure metal parts as they were at that age. After drying apply the final lights with Gunmetal Grey (70.863), and then a very light only at the tips and rivets of metal parts with Silver (70.997). 1.3-Wood. For wood on the muskets we applied Flat Brown (70.984). We then apply a wash with very dilute black to be inserted into the holes. The lights have been adding with Orange Brown (70.981). We did two coats to directly implement this last color. To the wood for cartridges that contain loads that lead the Musketeers we have applied a base of Flat Earth (70.983) mixed with black 1:1. We add more Flat Earth (70.983) to the mix for the lights to pure color and rinsing with Goldbrown (70.877) to directly implement this color. For the color of the pikes and halberds we applied English Uniform (70.921) rinsing with Beige (70.917) up to the last light with this color directly. In the following gallery you can see the final result of some of the figures that make up the diorama. Next time: based and final decoration ... see you!
1-Adding realistic details. Progress in our English Civil War diorama and our blog adding details to the work. I decided to add a group of dead and dying to diorama to give it more authenticity. I bought a blister of dead and wounded from Warlord Miniatures and chose four different figures. All underwent a similar transformation to the rest of the miniatures of the work and added some extra details as you can see in the gallery I show below. I molded with putty several broken patches on clothing, plus bags and other similar details. I also added a plastic beret to the sitting plastic miniature and a sword in its sheath. To fit well, the two plastic parts has been retouched with putty on the joints. To the dying crawling miniature I've added a plastic feather in his hat and a broken pike in his hand. To represent the fight until the last moment, or rather self-defense. It also has added a plastic sword in its sheath. At two dead miniatures similar contributions were made by adding a small plastic feather to one of them and a sword in the other. After primed then I decided to paint and here is the final result. Soon more information about the diorama, It is almost ready ... See you!
1-Preparing the base. Second part about the development of our diorama of the Purple Coats. While I'm finishing the painting, the following is to rearrange the miniatures to select a suitable base. After several placement tests I chose a rectangular base of 16cm long by 11cm wide. Adequate space for miniatures that are not scattered or close together. The next step is to define the elements of scenery and start developing them. I will place the Purple Coats behind a parapet that could be in any town at the time, I decided to do with slate. The plates of this material are very natural superimposed. After several tests I chose to do with real slate, and then I will paint it. Fortunately in my town I could find this material, but in large pieces. WIth a resilient metal tweezers I was leaving the edges of the larger boards, in some cases it was necessary tapped with a small hammer or similar. Creating smaller pieces to make the wall. The next step is to create a structure on which to mount the pieces of slate to shape more easily. As this structure will be covered I did it with cardboard with some adhesive tapetape to give consistency. After cutting the wall a bit to give a more natural shape, I proceeded to go sticking with a precision tweezers small pieces of slate with glue. Also interspersed some other type of stone and a wooden pole made with a stick ??for realism. And here the final result before painting of another section of the wall: Up here the second part. See you!
1-Historical Background. Lets start our Blog with a diorama that is currently in progress. This is a scene in 28mm, combining plastic and metal, about English Civil War, an importatnt historical conflict by the impact it had on the British story and neighboring countries. After a work of documentation of battles and important war stories of this conflict to get inspiration, I decided on a specific episode with a parlamentarian regiment, Lord Brooke´s regiment, characterized by purple jackets. It is easy and funny to paint this regiment due to his color. And we can represent the damage from the elements in the uniform and equipment, and reflect the lack of resources in the armies of both sides. The action takes place in Brentford in 1642. Where there was a clash between a royalist detachment (composed mainly of cavalry and an Welsh Infantry Regiment, both under the command of Prince Rupert) and two parlamentarian infantry regiments, one of Lord Brooke. Victory was for Royalist side, but Lord Brooke´s regiment said in defense of Brentford crouching in its streets and rejecting the cavalry charges while retreating. The combined action of cavalry and infantry eventually break parlamentarian lines, but the action of the Purple Coats still remembers. 2-Chosen miniatures. The original idea of the diorama is to represent the Purple Coats resisting a charge, which is not the first nor the last, with pikemen formed a central core with pikes ready in hand and Musketeers opening fire on both sides, all behind a small improved parapet on a street in Brentford. To customize the diorama according to this idea plastic is the best choice. So I had no hesitation in choosing the plastic box set of Parliamentary infantry of Warlord Games (http://www.warlordgames.com/) of its range Pike & Shotte. It provides me enough miniatures and accessories for the diorama. However, the little variety of poses makes me choose something in metal. I acquired a blister pack of pikemen in various poses resisting and a command blister pack to make conversions, all of Warlord and metal. And as I was interested in representing the Musketeers in various poses, opening fire, fighting, etc. I chose the new range of Empress English Civil War Miniatures (http://www.empressminiatures.com/), one blister of Musketeers recharging musket and blowing the fuse. 3-Tools used. To work with plastic and metal certain basic tools are needed. In my case I use a fine saw for metal that combined with a clamp for the clamping of the miniature that I will cut, two pincers, one for plastic and one for metal, drill and modeling cutter, and for conversions and repairs is essential twin putty and sculpting chisels. 4-Conversions. I started with the distribution of the miniatures and chose five pikemen in different poses. One of them kneeling with his sword drawn. After filing the thumbnails extensively, I practiced holes in some of them with a drill simulating musket bullet holes. Impacts often did not come with enough force to pierce the armor due to the distance of the shooter, but if left mark. In some cases the bullet through a piece of clothing or a helmet without making wounds on the objective soldier. I used the brass pikes that come with the miniatures, but with paper and glue to make it hard I simulated the metal pieces on the tops of the pikes, and with putty did the nails that would subject the metal to the wood. With putty I molded holes and tears in clothing and patches on the knees and elbows that then I will paint in different colors to give an idea of ??the state of the uniform in campaign. Also I molded leather bags and belts, shirt collars to stand out in the painting and even beard and mustache to represent veteran soldiers. The plastic Musketeers allowed me to add more details and equipment. And a conversion representing the inminet charche of the enemy. The musketeer with both hands in his musket was part of a plastic pikeman that was sculpted and shaped. In the case of the Musketeers wanted to represent lighter troops, do not wear armor like pikemen, and all wear hats with feathers or papers with passages from the Bible and details that set them apart from the common soldiers. So give him the idea of ??an elite troop, veterans, sharpshooters that would resist to the end. That's all for now. There will be more deliveries with the painting process and the development of the base. See you!